It’s no news that fertilizer is one of the best ways to help your plants grow well. However, with organic fertilizer topping the chart cause of its safe and eco-friendly application process, it is the most preferred to use.
But how long would you spend money on organic fertilizers when you can produce the industry standard on your own. Today, I will be sharing a DIY organic fertilizer guide to produce a good piece for your farm or garden. This is a safe and all-purpose recipe from the CEO of Territorial Seed Company, Steve Solomon.
Add at least a half-cup per 10 gallons of potted plants or 4-6 quarts per 100 square feet. Then uniformly mix the ingredients below, in parts by volume:
- 1/4 of finely ground calcium carbonate (part ordinary agricultural lime)
- seed meal (4 parts)
- 1/2 part of dolomite lime
- 1/4 part of gypsum or 2x agricultural lime
- 1/2 to 1 part of kelp meal or 1 part basalt dust alternatively
- 1 part bone meal (Rock phosphate or high-phosphate guano can be used as a substitute)
Best mixes for different crops
If preparing a recipe sounds too difficult, there are several other pre-made organic options available to meet the needs of specific crops. Below are some specific requirements to look out for.
- For Root Crops => 2:8:4
- For Brassicas => 6:3:2
- For Squash => 5:10:10
- For Tomatoes => 5:6:8
- For Corns => 6:3:3
- For Fruit Trees => 5:3:4
- For Berry => 5:3:4
Mycorrhizae and its roles
Adding fertilizer to the soil is only the beginning of the process of feeding your plants. The real work of feeding plants is done by billions of microorganisms that convert fertilizer into a usable and accessible form for the plants to consume.
The mycorrhizae, which are the root systems of the many fungus species that live in healthy soils, are organisms. These mycorrhizas are mutually related to the root system of the host plant. The plant and the mushroom have a symbiotic relation. In contrast, the mushroom facilitates the absorption of water and nutrients in the plant and gives the fungus food and nutrients created by photosynthesis.
Mycorrhizae can be seen as an extension of the root system of the plants, which allows them to access more nutrients. They also serve as a line of defense, protecting the plant’s root environment while also improving soil characteristics. Freshly tilled, compacted, or waterlogged soils are devoid of fungi, putting the plant at risk of malnutrition and disease.
The good news is that healthy gardening practices can help to promote mycorrhizae in soil. Certain types can also be purchased and added to your soil to increase the diversity of your microbial community. These are referred to as inoculants and can be used for specific purposes such as germination, root development, and nitrogen fixation.
Seeding or transplantation is the best time to apply the inoculant. Before the product is spreading, either coat seeds with inoculant powder or rub the product straight into the root ball for contact between the fungus and the root system, the material can also be added to existing landscapes. Create a hole around the droplet line of the trees or in the garden or soil with a pitchfork. Apply inoculant powder to the root system or liquid to the hole, then add a good amount of water.
Best Organic fertilizer timing and application
Plants need nutrients at various stages of their life cycle. Initially, as leaves develop, they require nitrogen and elements that support cell division. They require potassium and trace elements during bloom time. Perennials, root crops, and trees in dormancy look for phosphorus and the materials needed for a robust root system that will last the winter.
Think of your application as preventive when you organic fertilizer – in order to meet the plant’s future needs. When seeding, the fluid application of fertilizer provides immediate access in combination with granular fertilizers to nutrients that ensure consistent availability as the plant develops. Each transplant should include a bone meal or rock phosphate to stimulate root and potassium growth in the form of kelp for future flower requirements.